Madrid Travel Guide

Parque del Buen Retiro, Madrid


A true treasure for Madrid, Parque del Buen Retiro (Métro: Retiro) is a giant expanse of of over 330 acres, perfect for all kinds of exercising (there are football games all the time, there is a jogging track, tennis courts, a municipal gym, exercise bars, etc). 

If the weather permits, why not score points and after having a picnic of fresh bread, jamón serrano, cheese and a bottle of wine or a brik of chilled Don Simon sangría (only 1,25€ at most grocery and convenience stores) take a romantically memorable row around the lake (pictured above) in a small boat and get a close up look at the Monumento a Alfonso XII.

The word "retiro" means  "retreat" and was once a reserved for the royals but is now enjoyed by nearly all of Madrid.  The main event of most Sundays is the "paseo" - a leisurely stroll around the park to see and be seen.  You'll see well-dressed couples and even entire families walking around the park, stopping to say hello to friends and neighbors.  Small children prefer to make the paseo near the Puerta de Alcalá entrance because the park hosts puppet shows that take place on Sundays.

There's no denying the park's French style design when you come upon, the Palacio de Cristal, home to occasional art exhibitions, along with the Palacio de Velázquez, just steps away.

As you enjoy the park, be sure to some of Spain's culture -- there are plenty of vendors selling ice cream treats (Frigo ice cream bars are always a favorite of ours!), Valencia-style horchata, sunflower seeds (you'll see the shells on the floor of any public area in Spain), bocadillos (sub sandwiches, with jamón or vegetarian made with cheese or tortilla espanola) or granizados (basically a fruit-flavored ice drink that can break the heat of a hot Madrid summer day.

For a country that was so solidly Catholic just years ago, it is surprising that Retiro Park has the only statue in the world of Lucifer, El Ángel Caído (Fallen Angel).

One of the park's greatest exhibits, Feria del Libro (Book Fair), happens the first two weeks of June.  You'll need a strong fortitude to see the hundreds of stands of new and used books, maps, comic books and numerous other literary items.  Like many things in Spain, the dealers close between 1:45PM and 5PM for the afternoon siesta. This fair is very well attended due to strong discounts extended to the public.

The park's use by the majority of Madrid's population has kept the park relatively safe during the daytime.  Like any big city, women should not wander alone and no tourist should visit the park at night, despite it being patrolled by the Madrid police -- the park is simply too immense and dark to be completely safe.

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