A true treasure for Madrid, Parque del Buen Retiro (Métro: Retiro) is a giant
expanse of of over 330 acres, perfect for all kinds of exercising (there are
football games all the time, there is a jogging track, tennis courts, a
municipal gym, exercise bars, etc).
If the weather permits, why not score points and after having a picnic of
fresh bread, jamón serrano, cheese and a bottle of
wine or a brik of chilled Don Simon sangría (only 1,25€ at most grocery and
convenience stores) take a romantically memorable row around the lake
(pictured above) in a small boat and get a close up look at the Monumento a
Alfonso XII.
The word "retiro" means "retreat" and was once a reserved for the
royals but is now enjoyed by nearly all of Madrid. The main event of most
Sundays is the "paseo" - a leisurely stroll around the park to see and be seen.
You'll see well-dressed couples and even entire families walking around the
park, stopping to say hello to friends and neighbors. Small children
prefer to make the paseo near the Puerta de Alcalá entrance because the park
hosts puppet shows that take place on Sundays.
There's no denying the park's French style design when you come upon, the Palacio de Cristal,
home to occasional art exhibitions, along with the Palacio de Velázquez, just
steps away.
As you enjoy the park, be sure to some of Spain's culture -- there are plenty
of vendors selling ice cream treats (Frigo ice cream bars are always a favorite
of ours!), Valencia-style horchata, sunflower seeds (you'll see the shells on
the floor of any public area in Spain), bocadillos (sub sandwiches, with jamón
or vegetarian made with cheese or tortilla espanola) or granizados
(basically a fruit-flavored ice drink that can
break the heat of a hot Madrid summer day.
For a country that was so solidly Catholic just
years ago, it is surprising that Retiro Park has the only statue in the
world of Lucifer, El Ángel Caído (Fallen Angel).
One of the park's greatest exhibits, Feria del Libro (Book Fair), happens the
first two weeks of June. You'll need a strong fortitude to see the
hundreds of stands of new and used books, maps, comic books and numerous other
literary items. Like many things in Spain, the dealers close between
1:45PM and 5PM for the afternoon siesta. This fair is very well attended due to
strong discounts extended to the public.
The park's use by the majority of Madrid's population has kept the park
relatively safe during the daytime. Like any big city, women should not
wander alone and no tourist should visit the park at night, despite it being
patrolled by the Madrid police -- the park is simply too immense and dark to be
completely safe.