Eating in Barcelona

There are two ways to eat in Barcelona: you can go to a restaurant ( restaurante in Castilian) or cafetería and have a full meal, or you can have a succession of tapas (small snacks; sometimes tapes in Catalan) or raciones (larger ones; racions in Catalan) at one or more bars. This last option can be a lot more interesting, allowing you to do the rounds and sample local specialities. Otherwise, at the budget end of the scale, you'll be able to get a basic, filling, three-course meal with a drink - a menú del dia - for €5.50-9, though the cheapest tend to be served in drab dining rooms and are usually available only at lunchtime. There are some excellent exceptions, though, and plenty of proper restaurants also provide a good-value menúdel dia for between €9 and €12.

Travellers on an extremely limited budget can do well for themselves by using the excellent markets, bakeries and delis and filling up on sandwiches and snacks.

Good restaurants and cafés are easily found all over the city, though you'll probably do most of your eating where you do most of your sightseeing, in the old town, particularly around the Ramblas and in the Barri Gòtic. Don't be afraid to venture into the Barrio Chino which hides some excellent restaurants, some surprisingly expensive, others little more than hole-in-the-wall cafés. In the Eixample prices tend to be higher, though you'll find plenty of lunchtime bargains around. Gràcia , further out, is a nice place to spend the evening, with plenty of good mid-range restaurants. For the food which Barcelona is really proud of - elaborate sarsuelas (fish stews) and all kinds of fish and seafood - you're best off in the Barceloneta district (Metro Barceloneta, or bus #64 or #17, final stop), down by the harbour, or in the Port Olímpic (Metro Ciutadella, or bus #41 or #59). Nor should you necessarily eschew local chain or franchise outfits, which can be surprisingly good and sometimes score quite well on ambience and decor.

Note that the Barri Gòtic can be a dangerous place late at night. The tapas bars themselves are all right (watch your possessions; bag-snatchers operate in crowded bars), but take care if you're on a bar crawl - stick to the main streets, don't let anyone lure you up a side street, and only take out the money you're going to spend that night.

Some Handy Chains: Cafés And Bars

Breakfast, Snacks And Sandwiches

Tapas Bars

Restaurants

Markets, Supermarkets And Delis